Graham Bread

Graham bread is a no-yeast quick bread that relies on baking soda and buttermilk for its rise. The combination of graham flour and whole wheat flour gives it a hearty, slightly sweet, nutty character that pairs well with butter, honey, or just on its own with a cup of tea.

The oven technique here is worth noting. You slide the pan into a hot oven, then immediately drop the temperature. That initial blast of high heat jump-starts the rise before the crust sets, giving you a taller loaf with a better dome than if you started at the lower temperature.

Buttermilk reacts with the baking soda to create lift, but it also adds a subtle tang that balances the sweetness of the sugar and the earthiness of the graham flour. Mix until just combined and get it in the oven quickly. Once the baking soda activates, the clock is ticking.

Chef Tips

• Don’t overmix the batter. Stirring too much develops gluten and turns a quick bread tough and tunneled.
• If you can’t find graham flour, use a 50/50 blend of whole wheat flour and all-purpose flour as a substitute. It won’t be identical but gets close.
• Test with a skewer at 50 minutes. The center of a dense loaf like this can stay underdone even when the top looks golden.
• Let the loaf cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turning out. It’s fragile when hot.

Variations

• Add a handful of raisins or chopped dates to the batter for a sweeter tea bread.
• Replace the sugar with an equal amount of molasses for a darker, more robust flavor reminiscent of Boston brown bread.
• Stir in a teaspoon of cinnamon and a pinch of nutmeg for a spiced version.