Schwaemme (Mushrooms)

Schwaemme is one of those old German dishes that makes the most of wild mushrooms when they’re in season. King boletes and chanterelles get sliced thin, simmered in butter and broth until tender, then thickened with a quick flour paste and finished with cream and fresh parsley.

The technique is deceptively simple but the results depend entirely on your mushrooms. Fresh, high-quality boletes and chanterelles bring an earthy, woodsy depth that cultivated button mushrooms just can’t match. If you’re foraging or shopping at a farmers’ market, this is the recipe to show them off.

A squeeze of lemon at the end brightens the rich cream sauce and keeps it from feeling heavy. Serve it ladled over potato dumplings or bread dumplings for the full Bavarian experience.

Kitchen Tips

• For king boletes, scrape away the spongy greenish layer under the cap. It gets slimy when cooked and muddies the texture of the sauce.
• Mix the flour with a couple tablespoons of cold water to make a smooth paste before adding it. Sprinkling dry flour directly into the pan will give you lumps.
• Don’t overcook the mushrooms. They’re done shortly after the liquid reaches a rolling boil. Pushing past that turns them rubbery.
• Stir in the cream off the heat. Boiling cream in the sauce can cause it to separate.

Variations

• Use a mix of cremini and shiitake mushrooms if wild mushrooms aren’t available. You’ll lose some earthiness but the technique still works.
• Replace the cream with creme fraiche for a tangier, slightly thicker sauce.
• Add a splash of dry white wine to the butter before the mushrooms go in for an extra layer of flavor.