Gyoza a la Ruth

Real gyoza need two cooking stages, and that is what makes them sing: a quick sear in hot peanut oil to crisp the bottom into a golden, lacy crust, followed by a covered steam in chicken stock that cooks the filling through and turns the wrapper soft and pillowy. Crispy on the bottom, tender on top, juicy in the middle.

The filling here is the classic ratio: three-quarters of a pound of ground pork to a generous mound of finely chopped napa cabbage. The cabbage is doing two jobs, adding sweetness and bulk, and releasing moisture during cooking that keeps the pork tender and juicy.

A splash of sherry and a tablespoon of soy sauce do the seasoning work. Cornstarch is the unexpected addition that binds everything and gives the filling a slightly springy, tender texture instead of falling apart when cooked.

The folding is the part that takes practice. A spoonful of filling in the center, brush water around half the edge, fold over and pinch firmly with little pleats along one side. Do not overstuff, the wrappers will burst during the steam.

Pro Tips

• Salt the chopped cabbage and let it sit for 10 minutes, then squeeze out the liquid before mixing with pork. This concentrates the flavor and prevents the filling from going watery.
• Arrange the gyoza in the pan barely touching, this is intentional. The fond between dumplings forms a connected lacy crust everyone fights for.
• Do not move the gyoza once they are in the pan to crisp, let the bottom fully set and brown before adding stock and steam.
• Serve with a dipping sauce of soy sauce, rice vinegar, and a few drops of chili oil for the traditional finish.

Variations

• Substitute ground chicken or turkey for the pork for a leaner version.
• Add a teaspoon of toasted sesame oil to the filling for deeper, more aromatic flavor.
• Use store-bought potsticker wrappers if gyoza-specific are unavailable, they are nearly identical and work the same way.