Vitello Tonnato

Vitello tonnato is Piedmont’s great summer party trick. Poached veal sliced paper-thin, arranged cold on a platter, and drowned in a cool sauce built around canned tuna, capers, anchovies, and lemon. The combination sounds strange and tastes unforgettable.

The dish started in 18th century Piedmont as a way to preserve veal during hot months, and modern Italian home cooks still make it for Ferragosto (August 15th) lunches and Christmas Eve spreads. It is traditionally served as an antipasto or light main.

Poaching, not roasting, is the whole point. The veal goes into cold water with mirepoix (carrot, celery, onion, parsley) and simmers gently for 90 minutes. Gentle heat keeps the meat silky. A hard boil turns veal into rubber.

The sauce emulsifies in the food processor. Tuna, capers, pickles, and anchovies purée first, then mayonnaise and lemon juice work it into a mousse-like texture. This is classic Piedmontese technique, the anchovies and capers doing what would be seasoning work in any other cuisine.

Slice the veal very thin, against the grain. A sharp knife and a cooled piece of meat are a must. The sauce should completely blanket every slice, so have extra on the side.

Chef Tips

• Use veal top round or eye of round. Both are lean and slice beautifully when cold.
• Cool the cooked veal in its poaching liquid for maximum moisture. Taking it out hot dries the meat as it sits.
• Use Italian olive oil-packed tuna, not water-packed. The fat carries flavor and keeps the sauce silky.
• Make everything the day before. The veal slices cleaner when chilled overnight, and the sauce deepens in the fridge.
• Garnish with lemon slices, fresh parsley, capers, and a light drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil.

Variations

• Swap veal for turkey breast or pork tenderloin if veal is hard to find or over budget.
• Stir a spoonful of Dijon mustard into the sauce for more bite.
• Add a few chopped hard-boiled eggs to the sauce, a traditional Milanese variant known as vitello tonnato alla Milanese. Serve with capers on top.