Ukrainian Meat & Fish Loaf

This Ukrainian-style baked loaf is genuine peasant cooking from the Carpathian region: ground meats stretched with potatoes, herring (milk-soaked to mellow its brine), and pulled together with yogurt and eggs. The unusual meat-and-fish combination is traditional in parts of Eastern Europe where both were plentiful and protein had to go far.

The overnight milk soak for the herring is the technique most cooks skip and shouldn’t. Dairy proteins bind to the trimethylamine compounds that make cured fish smell fishy, then you discard the milk and what’s left is mild and clean. Pat dry before adding to the loaf.

The whipped egg whites are the textural lift here. Folded in just before baking, they keep the dense protein mixture from turning into a brick, instead giving it a slightly puffed, almost souffle-like texture in the middle.

Pro Tips

• Use fresh herring if possible, pickled or jarred has too much vinegar and brine to absorb fully in the milk
• Boil the potatoes thoroughly until fork tender, undercooked potato won’t blend smooth in the processor
• Beat the egg whites to soft, not hard peaks, hard peaks won’t fold cleanly
• Spread the bread crumb and goat cheese topping evenly for an even golden crust
• Let the loaf rest 10 minutes before slicing, hot from the oven it falls apart

Variations

• Substitute ground pork for lamb for a milder, sweeter loaf
• Use mascarpone or quark in place of yogurt for richer body
• Add a tablespoon of dill or caraway seeds for traditional Eastern European herbal lift