Teisen Sir Fon (Anglesey Cake)

Teisen Sir Fon, literally “Anglesey Cake” in Welsh, comes from the island off the northwest coast of Wales. This is unfussy farmhouse baking from a time when lard was the everyday fat and molasses (or black treacle) lived on the shelf for color and depth.

The recipe is as plain as a recipe gets: cream lard into sugar, beat in an egg, mix in flour and dried fruit, then stir in milk with the bicarbonate dissolved in it. That last step is the leavening trick. The bicarbonate reacts with the small amount of acid in molasses and milk, giving the cake a tender, slightly open crumb.

Mixed spice and a pinch of ginger carry the flavor. British mixed spice is its own thing, a blend that leans on coriander, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and clove, and it gives the cake that unmistakable English-baking tea-time warmth.

Bake until a skewer comes out clean and serve in thick slices with butter, or alongside a cup of strong tea.

Pro Tips

• Use real lard or beef suet for the most authentic flavor; vegetable shortening works but loses the savory edge.
• If you cannot find British mixed spice, blend 1 tsp cinnamon, ¼ tsp allspice, ¼ tsp nutmeg, and a pinch of clove.
• Soak the dried fruit in a tablespoon of warm milk or tea for 10 minutes before mixing; it keeps the cake moister.
• “Moderately hot oven” in old British recipes means about 350°F (180°C).

Variations

• Use a mix of currants, sultanas, and chopped dates for a more textured dried fruit blend.
• Add a tablespoon of dark rum or whisky along with the milk for a richer, boozier cake.
• Drizzle the cooled cake with lemon glaze for a Welsh-bakery-style finish.