Summer Mushroom Spaghetti

Some of the best pasta is the simplest, and this meatless mushroom spaghetti proves it with barely a handful of ingredients. A pound of sliced mushrooms goes a long way when they are cooked right.

Start gently. Garlic warms in butter and olive oil just until fragrant, never browned, because browned garlic turns bitter and would haunt the whole sauce.

In go the mushrooms, cooked until softened and giving up their savory juices, then a splash of dry red wine that reduces into the buttery sauce for depth.

Toss it all with thin spaghetti, broken in half so it tangles easily with the mushrooms. Finish at the table with grated Parmesan and a pinch of crushed red chili for anyone who likes a little heat. Light enough for a warm evening, which is how it earned its name.

Kitchen Tips

• Watch the garlic closely. The recipe is clear: do not let it brown, or the sauce turns bitter.
• Give the mushrooms room and do not crowd the pan, so they soften and brown rather than steam.
• Save a splash of pasta water to loosen the sauce if it tightens up when you toss everything together.

Variations

• Use a mix of mushrooms, cremini, shiitake and oyster, for deeper flavor.
• Swap the red wine for white wine or a splash of vegetable stock.
• Add a handful of baby spinach or torn fresh basil at the end for color.