Seitan a la Normandie

This vegetarian take on a Normandy classic swaps meat for seitan and builds layers of sweet-savory flavor with apples, tamari, apple juice concentrate, and a splash of mirin.

Frying the raw seitan first and then simmering it for 30 minutes before assembling is a critical step. It firms up the texture and gives it a chewy, meaty bite that holds up during the long bake. Skipping this and you’ll end up with soft, spongy seitan that falls apart.

Four cups of sliced onions sounds like a lot, but they cook down dramatically. Sauteed until soft and translucent, they form a sweet, jammy layer between the seitan and the apples.

Fanning the apple slices over the top means they steam and soften gently under the foil while picking up the tamari and mirin from below. The pecans add a toasty crunch that contrasts with all that softness.

The low, slow bake lets everything braise together and the flavors concentrate into a rich, apple-scented sauce.

Chef Tips

• Slice the seitan as thin as possible, no thicker than ¼ inch. Thin pieces absorb more flavor and develop better texture during frying.
• Use a tight-fitting lid or double layer of foil. Any steam that escapes means less braising liquid and drier results.
• Choose firm, tart apples like Granny Smith that hold their shape during the long bake. Soft varieties will dissolve into mush.

Variations

• Hard cider version: Replace the water with dry hard cider for a more authentically Norman flavor with a subtle boozy depth.
• With mushrooms: Add sliced cremini mushrooms to the onion saute for extra umami that complements the tamari.