Scottish Rabbit Curry

This rabbit curry reads like a page from a Victorian cookbook, and that’s because it essentially is. Scottish game cookery meets British colonial curry in a dish where rabbit pieces get browned in butter, then simmered with streaky bacon, button onions, curry powder, and mushroom powder in a well-seasoned stock until the sauce goes thick and rich.

The writing style is charmingly old-fashioned, right down to the advice to “examine the kidney” when choosing your rabbit and the suggestion that “we do not like green vegetables in curries." But the technique is sound. Browning the rabbit and onions first builds a deep, savory base. Pouring off the browning butter before adding the stock keeps the curry from being greasy.

Mushroom powder is the ingredient that catches the eye. It adds a concentrated umami earthiness that deepens the curry without adding visible mushroom pieces. The recipe suggests fresh coconut rasped and stewed alongside for mild curries, and notes that celery and mushrooms are welcome enrichments. This is curry as the Scots interpreted it: hearty, meaty, and built for cold weather.

Chef Tips

• Cut the rabbit into at least twelve pieces. Smaller pieces cook more evenly and absorb more of the thick curry sauce.
• Simmer for at least 30 minutes, stirring. The flour needs time to thicken the sauce properly, and the rabbit needs the slow cook to become tender.
• The sauce should be thick. This isn’t a soupy curry. If it’s too thin after simmering, cook uncovered for a few more minutes to reduce.
• Taste and adjust seasoning throughout. The recipe calls for cayenne, turmeric, or acid as needed. Build the flavor gradually.

Variations

• Chicken substitute: Use a whole chicken cut into pieces if rabbit isn’t available. The technique and timing are nearly identical.
• Add fresh mushrooms alongside the bacon and onions for even more earthy depth.
• Coconut milk enrichment: Stir in a splash of coconut milk at the end for a creamier, more modern curry sauce.