Saltimboca Alla Romana

A Roman trattoria staple whose name translates to “jumps in the mouth," and it earns the bragging rights. Thin cutlets of veal, pounded slightly, get topped with a paper-thin slice of prosciutto and two fresh sage leaves, folded, secured with a toothpick, and seared in hot butter.

Fresh sage is the whole flavor backbone here. Dried works in a pinch but goes dusty in a dish this spare, so hit the grocer or the windowsill pot before attempting it. Keep the pounding gentle. You want the veal thinner than it was cut but still substantial enough to hold the prosciutto and sage without tearing.

The pan sauce cooks itself. After the veal comes out, a splash of dry white wine hits the hot pan and lifts all the browned butter and pork drippings off the bottom. Reduce by a quarter and pour over the waiting platter. Three minutes of work, maximum restaurant payoff.

Chef Tips

• Pound the veal between wax paper with the flat side of a cleaver, not the textured side, or you’ll shred the meat.
• Sear over fairly high heat first to get real color, then drop the flame to finish. Overcooked veal goes chewy fast.
• A dry, unoaked white (pinot grigio, vermentino, Frascati) gives the cleanest pan sauce. Avoid anything sweet or buttery.
• Serve immediately. Saltimbocca waits for no one, and the sauce thickens as it sits.

Variations

• Use chicken breast cutlets or pork scaloppini if veal is hard to source.
• Finish the pan sauce with a squeeze of lemon and a knob of cold butter for extra gloss.
• Plate over sauteed spinach or a smear of soft polenta to catch the sauce.