Favorite Rumaki

Rumaki is the legendary tiki-bar appetizer that defined cocktail party menus from the 1950s through the 1970s. Despite the Polynesian name, the dish is actually a Hawaiian-American invention from Trader Vic’s, combining Asian flavors with the classic American technique of wrapping anything edible in bacon. Chicken liver and water chestnut tucked into a strip of bacon and broiled until crisp.

The contrast is what makes rumaki magical. Each bite gives you crisp salty bacon, soft creamy liver, and crunchy water chestnut all at once, then the soy-ginger-five spice marinade ties everything together with savory Asian flavor. People who think they don’t like liver often change their mind after one of these.

Marinating for at least 30 minutes is essential. The chicken liver soaks up the soy sauce flavor in that time, transforming what could taste muddy or gamey into something rich and savory. Don’t skip the marinade or shorten the time.

Using five spice powder along with ginger gives the marinade an unmistakable Chinese-American flavor profile. The blend of star anise, cinnamon, fennel, cloves, and Sichuan pepper rounds the soy and gives the rumaki its distinctive tiki-bar character.

Serve hot, straight from the broiler. They lose their appeal as they cool and the bacon goes from crisp to chewy.

Pro Tips

• Use the thinnest sliced bacon you can find, regular cut. Thick-cut bacon won’t crisp in the time it takes the liver to cook through.
• Soak wooden toothpicks in water for 10 minutes before using. Dry toothpicks burn under the broiler.
• Place rumaki on a wire rack over a baking sheet. The fat drips through and the bacon crisps evenly on all sides without sitting in grease.
• Turn during broiling to brown evenly. Position 6 inches from the heat source to avoid burning.

Variations

• Substitute marinated pineapple chunks for the water chestnuts for a sweeter tiki vibe.
• Use shrimp or scallops in place of chicken liver for those who don’t enjoy organ meats.
• Brush with a sweet glaze (hoisin, honey, or teriyaki) during the last 5 minutes of broiling for extra flavor.