Rehruecken

Rehruecken is the German saddle-of-venison cake, named for its shape rather than any actual game in the recipe. Baked in a long, ribbed loaf mold (the rehruecken pan), the finished cake gets studded with slivered almonds so it looks like a venison roast pricked with the larding pins of an old-school butcher.

The cake itself is a chocolate-cinnamon sponge built on the warm-egg method. Whole eggs and sugar beat over steaming water (a bain-marie technique that helps the eggs hold maximum air), then continue beating off the heat until cooled. Flour, cake crumbs, cinnamon, and lemon zest fold in next, followed by melted butter mixed with cocoa for the chocolate body.

The finishing layer is what makes this cake feel proper Old World. Split horizontally, filled with tart currant jelly, then iced with a hard chocolate glaze and pricked with almond slivers, the rehruecken stands tall on the holiday table or coffee tray.

Pro Tips

• The bain-marie egg whip is the technique that gives this cake its rise. Don’t shortcut it.
• Use stale plain cake or cookie crumbs for the cake crumb component. Fresh crumbs are too soft and don’t add structure.
• Cool the cake completely before splitting and filling. Warm cake tears.
• Spread the chocolate glaze quickly while warm. It hardens fast and won’t smooth out once set.

Variations

• Swap currant jelly for raspberry preserves or apricot jam for different fruit notes.
• Use a mix of cinnamon and a pinch of clove for a more wintery spice profile.
• Serve with a dollop of softly whipped cream flavored with vanilla and a splash of kirsch.