Raised Donuts

Raised donuts are the yeasted cousin of the cake donut, and the difference in texture is night and day. Where cake donuts skew dense and crumbly, raised donuts are light, bread-soft, and shatter open with gentle pressure. The slow overnight rise is what delivers that airy interior, along with a mild, faintly nutty yeast flavor you cannot rush with a quick rise.

The method is old-school for good reason. Scald the milk first to deactivate a whey protein that would otherwise weaken the dough’s gluten structure (yes, really, this matters). Bloomed yeast, melted butter, and a pinch of nutmeg go in next, followed by enough flour to make a soft overnight sponge. Morning brings the sugar, eggs, and the rest of the flour for a final kneaded dough. A second proof, a roll to one-third inch, and a cut with a floured donut cutter. Into hot fat they go, puffing dramatically.

Pro Tips

• Heat the frying fat to 365°F (185°C). Too cool and donuts absorb grease; too hot and they brown before the inside cooks.
• Flip donuts once when they look golden underneath; resist the urge to keep turning them.
• Fry in small batches. Crowding the pot drops the oil temperature fast.
• Drain on a rack over paper towels rather than directly on paper for crispier bottoms.

Variations

• Dip warm donuts in a simple vanilla glaze made from powdered sugar and milk.
• Toss hot in cinnamon sugar for an old-fashioned doughnut shop finish.
• Fill cooled donuts with jam, pastry cream, or lemon curd using a piping tip.