Rabbit Hoggan

A hoggan is the Cornish farmer’s answer to a pasty, and this rabbit version is the old-school country original. Lard-rich shortcrust pastry wraps cubed rabbit, potato, turnip, carrot, and onion into a free-standing parcel that bakes upright on the tray. No crimped edges on one side here, just an all-around sealed dome.

The lard pastry is the heart of the dish. Lard makes a shorter, more savoury crust than butter ever could, with enough structure to stand on its own through a long bake. A drop of lemon juice in the dough tightens the gluten and helps the pastry hold its shape against the steam pressure inside.

A splash of stock is all the liquid the filling needs. The vegetables release moisture as they cook, creating an aromatic broth inside the parcel that infuses everything before cutting.

Pro Tips

• Cut all the filling ingredients into a small, uniform dice so they finish cooking together
• Don’t overfill the pastry, leave room to seal it properly or steam will burst a hole
• Brush with milk for an even golden sheen, an egg wash works for darker color
• Bake on a parchment-lined tray, any escaping juices will scorch directly on metal
• Rest 10 minutes before cutting so the filling settles and stops weeping

Variations

• Sub in chicken or pheasant if rabbit is hard to find, both work beautifully
• Add a teaspoon of fresh thyme or sage to the filling for an herbaceous lift
• Tuck in chopped leeks alongside the onion for sweetness