Pho

Real pho starts with the broth, and this one builds it from oxtails simmered for hours with charred onion, blackened garlic, star anise, and whole peppercorns. The long simmer extracts collagen from the bones, creating a broth that’s light in color (like fine tea, not dark brown) but deeply rich and aromatic.

Charring the onion and garlic over an open flame or under the broiler before they go in the pot is what gives pho its signature smoky depth. Don’t skip this step. Uncharred aromatics make a flat, one-dimensional broth.

The magic of serving is part of the dish. Rice noodles go in the bowl first, topped with a single layer of paper-thin raw beef. Boiling broth poured over the top cooks the beef instantly, turning it silky pink. Nuoc mam (fish sauce), fresh cayenne, cilantro, scallions, and lemon slices go on at the table.

Chef Tips

• Slice the beef as thin as possible. Partially freezing it for 20 minutes makes thin slicing much easier.
• Skim the broth frequently during the first hour. Foam and impurities rise early and cloud the broth if left in.
• The broth should be at a rolling boil when you pour it over the beef. Lukewarm broth won’t cook the meat.
• Fish sauce (nuoc mam) is essential. Soy sauce works as a substitute, but the flavor is noticeably different.

Variations

• Add a cinnamon stick and a few whole cloves to the broth for a more traditional spice profile.
• Use beef bones or knuckles if oxtail is unavailable. The collagen content is similar.
• Serve with a plate of bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeno slices, and hoisin sauce on the side.