Peking Lamb with Leeks

Peking lamb with leeks is a showcase of Chinese wok cooking technique. The baking-soda soak is what makes thin lamb slices silky and tender instead of chewy, a Cantonese velveting trick borrowed for the northern table. Then comes the triple fry, short bursts with rests in between, which seals the surface in layers so each piece turns crisp outside and barely-cooked within.

The sauce carries the dish. Brown bean paste brings fermented depth, Shao Hsing rice wine adds rounded sweetness, rice vinegar cuts the fat, and a final drizzle of toasted sesame oil finishes with nutty perfume. Leek rings, smoky dried chilies, and reconstituted Chinese mushrooms join the wok for a quick high-heat toss.

Everything happens fast once the sauce hits, so have rice ready and every bowl on the counter before you fire the burner.

Kitchen Tips

• Slice the lamb across the grain about ⅛-inch thick. Partially freezing it for 30 minutes first makes thin even slices much easier.
• Do not skip the baking-soda soak. Five hours is what breaks down surface proteins so the lamb stays plush after frying.
• Dry the marinated lamb well before it hits the oil. Wet meat causes dangerous splatter and ruins the crust.
• Let the oil fully reheat between the three fry rounds. Cool oil soaks in and turns the lamb greasy.
• If you skip MSG, add a pinch of sugar plus a splash of soy for the savory round-out.

Variations

• Trade lamb for flank steak or beef sirloin using the same velveting method.
• Swap the leek for scallion whites and add a handful of snow peas for a greener finish.
• Use doubanjiang (fermented chili bean paste) in place of brown bean sauce for a Sichuan-leaning heat.