Pea Soup with Pork

This is Scandinavian-style pea soup (ärtsoppa to the Swedes, ärter med fläsk to anyone serving it on Thursdays as tradition demands). The recipe uses yellow split peas rather than the more common green ones, which makes for a lighter color, milder flavor, and faster cook compared to green split pea soup.

The quick-soak method is the smart shortcut. Instead of overnight soaking, bring the peas to a hard boil for 2 to 3 minutes, then kill the heat and let them sit for an hour. This achieves the same softening effect as overnight soaking in just over 60 minutes.

The clove-studded onion is the classic French studding technique used to perfume the broth without leaving onion chunks throughout the soup. Stick whole cloves into a peeled onion, drop it into the pot to simmer, then fish it out before serving.

Salt pork (a full pound) provides the smoky, salty backbone. After simmering, slice it ¼ inch thick and serve alongside or floated on top of the soup. Marjoram and thyme finish the broth with warm, earthy herbal notes.

Pro Tips

• Skim any pea husks that float to the top during the soak. They will not break down and add nothing to the soup.
• Cook the soup partially covered. Fully covered traps too much steam, fully uncovered reduces too aggressively.
• Do not let the peas fall apart. The texture should be tender but still distinguishable peas, not pea mush.
• Save the salt pork’s cooking liquid as the broth itself. There is no need to make stock; the pork seasons the pot.

Variations

• Substitute a meaty ham hock for the salt pork for a less fatty, smokier version.
• Stir in a tablespoon of mustard at the table, Swedish-style.
• Add diced carrots and celery with the onion for a more vegetable-forward soup.