Pappardelle Ii (Duck)

This is a serious Italian duck ragu in the Tuscan tradition, built from boneless duck pieces browned in olive oil, then braised with pancetta, chicken livers, dried porcini mushrooms, rosemary, cloves, and white wine. It simmers for 45 minutes until the duck is tender and the sauce is deeply concentrated. This is meant to be served over wide pappardelle noodles that can catch all that rich, meaty sauce.

The chicken livers stirred in early may surprise you, but they’re a classic Tuscan move. They melt into the sauce during the long simmer, adding an iron-rich depth and silky body that duck alone can’t deliver. You won’t taste “liver” in the finished dish; you’ll taste a sauce with remarkable complexity.

Dried porcini soaked in hot water contribute twice: the chopped mushrooms add earthy bites throughout, and the strained soaking liquid becomes a concentrated mushroom broth that goes right into the pot. Don’t skip straining that liquid through cheesecloth or a fine sieve to catch any grit.

The wine cooks down until nearly evaporated before the tomato paste and stock go in, which concentrates the acidity into the meat rather than leaving a winey aftertaste.

Chef Tips

• Drain off three-quarters of the duck fat after the initial browning. Reserve it for roasting potatoes later
• Soak the porcini for a full 30 minutes in hot water. Shortcuts produce tough, chewy mushrooms
• Skim the fat from the surface after the 45-minute simmer for a cleaner sauce
• Remove bay leaves and rosemary stems before serving

Variations

• Rabbit version: Substitute boneless rabbit for the duck for a lighter, more traditional Tuscan ragu
• No liver: Omit the chicken livers if the idea puts you off. The sauce will still be rich from the duck and pancetta