Papayas with Shrimp

A tropical ladies-lunch classic that takes 10 minutes and looks like it came off a cruise ship buffet. Cooked shrimp get dressed in curry-tinted mayonnaise with fresh lemon juice and a spoonful of chutney, then piled into halved, seeded papaya to serve.

The curry powder is subtle, just a pinch to tint the mayo a warm gold and lend a gentle Indian-accented warmth. Too much and it overwhelms the delicate shrimp flavor. A dash is right.

Mango chutney is the secret ingredient. Its sweet-tart-spicy complexity elevates what would otherwise be a standard shrimp salad into something much more interesting. Sweet mango complements the papaya vessel and the chutney’s vinegar cuts the mayo’s richness.

Ripe papaya is non-negotiable here. An underripe papaya tastes green and soapy and clashes with the shrimp; a ripe one tastes almost melon-like and pairs beautifully. The fruit should yield slightly to gentle pressure and smell sweet at the stem end.

Seeding the papaya halves leaves a natural bowl. The peppery black seeds aren’t necessary in this dish, but rinse and save a few for pepper mill use; they taste like mild black pepper when dried.

Kitchen Tips

• Chop the shrimp coarsely if they’re extra-jumbo. Smaller pieces mix more evenly with the dressing and scoop better.
• Squeeze lime or lemon over the papaya flesh just before serving to keep the fruit from oxidizing and darkening.
• Serve well chilled. The salad is best cold, and warm papaya turns mushy.

Variations

• Swap shrimp for crab meat or flaked lobster for a fancier version.
• Add a handful of chopped cashews or slivered almonds for crunch.
• Finish with minced fresh cilantro or mint for herbal brightness.