Opal Deneke's Fig Jam

Opal Deneke’s fig jam is the kind of hand-me-down preserve that earns its place in a kitchen by sheer family loyalty, the Southern recipe that comes out every late summer when the fig tree is dropping fruit faster than anyone can pick. The unexpected addition of canned pineapple is the secret weapon here, the natural acidity helps the jam set and the bright tropical sweetness keeps the heavy fig pulp from feeling too rich or dense. A generous tablespoon each of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice gives this jam a holiday-spiced character that elevates it well above plain fig jam and makes it natural alongside a cheese board or piled onto biscuits with country ham. Peel only the bits of skin that pull off easily with the stem as the directions specify, the rest dissolves into the jam during cooking. Stirring constantly is the most important step, fig pulp sticks and scorches faster than almost any other fruit.

Kitchen Tips

• Weigh the figs after peeling, not before, the recipe scales sugar to the actual fruit weight and over-sugaring makes a rock-hard jam.
• Stir absolutely constantly during cooking, fig pulp catches and burns within seconds on the bottom of an unstirred pot.
• Test for proper set by spooning a little onto a frozen plate, the jam should wrinkle slightly when pushed with a finger if it’s ready.
• Sterilize jars properly in boiling water for 10 minutes, or process filled jars in a water bath for shelf-stable storage according to your altitude.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of grated fresh ginger or a few cardamom pods for a more aromatic, modern jam.
• Stir in a splash of bourbon or dark rum at the end of cooking for a boozy, dessert-leaning version.
• Swap the canned pineapple for fresh chopped pineapple plus a tablespoon of lemon zest for a brighter, fresher take.