N.Y.Cima Roll

Cima alla Genovese is the classic Ligurian stuffed veal breast that gets sliced to reveal a mosaic of vegetables, eggs, and nuts in cross-section. This New York riff makes the whole thing vegan: a silky pureed tofu exterior wraps a dense, colorful filling built from seitan, bread crumbs, soy grits, pistachios, peas, spinach, and chopped roasted red peppers. When you slice it, each piece shows off a speckled, almost stained-glass pattern.

The tofu puree works like a protein-rich skin. Arrowroot and agar bind it together so it holds the roll’s shape during steaming.

Shaping is easier than it sounds. Spread the tofu puree flat on plastic wrap, lay the cima mix log down the center, and roll the plastic up around it, smoothing the seam closed.

That steamer warning in the directions is serious. Your steamer has to be wide enough to support the whole 12-inch roll from beneath, or it collapses and you lose the pretty cross-section.

Kitchen Tips

• Press the firm tofu well before pureeing. Excess water dilutes the binder and the roll won’t hold shape.
• Warm the lecithin before stirring into the filling. Cold lecithin clumps and distributes unevenly.
• Slice with a serrated knife using a gentle sawing motion once cooled. Pressing straight down squishes the filling.
• Cool 10 minutes minimum before slicing. A hot roll falls apart; cooled it sets up beautifully.

Variations

• Swap pistachios for pine nuts or walnuts for a different nutty character.
• Add chopped sun-dried tomatoes or olives for a briny, Mediterranean twist.
• Serve warm with salsa verde or cold with a lemon-caper vinaigrette.