Mom's Peppered Ham

This is an old-school home-deli project, the kind of recipe passed down without precise measurements because the cook expected you to eyeball it. A ham shank simmered tender in a big pot of water, then de-boned and coated thick with freshly puréed whole peppercorns before finishing in a low oven to dry the crust.

The result is a pepper-crusted ham you can slice paper-thin for sandwiches that’d run you ten bucks a pound at a deli counter.

Poaching instead of roasting keeps the meat tender and juicy, which matters when you’re planning to slice thin. The pot liquor that remains is too good to throw out, strain the fat and use the salty-savory stock for cooking black beans the next day.

The oven step isn’t to cook the ham (it’s already done) but to dry the peppercorn coating so it adheres to the meat instead of falling off when you slice. A low 300°F to 325°F (150°C to 165°C) for an hour or so does the job.

Chill completely before slicing, cold ham slices cleaner than warm every time.

Pro Tips

• Use a sharp slicer or a serrated knife for paper-thin slices, dull knives tear the meat
• Chill the coated ham overnight if possible, the rest sets the pepper crust firmly
• Don’t skip saving the pot liquor, it’s the best bean-cooking stock you’ll ever make
• Freeze what you won’t eat within a week, sliced ham keeps well vacuum-sealed

Variations

• Add crushed fennel seeds or coriander to the peppercorn coat for a more complex spice crust
• Brush the ham with maple syrup before the pepper coat for a sweet-savory twist
• Swap ham shank for a pork loin for a leaner deli-style option