Manhattan-Style Seafood Stew

Manhattan style means one thing: tomatoes, not cream. This stew takes the bright, briny route, building a tomato broth spiked with clam juice, white wine and a pinch of red pepper, then loading it with three kinds of shellfish.

It starts, smartly, with bacon. Rendering it first lays down a smoky backbone that runs through the whole pot, and the onions and shallots soften right in that rendered fat. Sliced potatoes simmer in the broth until tender, soaking up all that flavor.

The seafood goes in last, and timing is everything. Clams need a few minutes to steam open, so they go first. Then the shrimp and scallops join for just three minutes, long enough to cook through but not so long they turn to rubber.

A word on the clams: toss any that refuse to open after cooking, since a stubborn shell usually means a bad one. Finish with fresh basil and a scatter of lemon zest for a final hit of brightness.

Chef Tips

• Scrub the clams well and discard any that stay shut after cooking. An unopened clam is one to throw out, not pry open.
• Add the shrimp and scallops only for the last few minutes. Overcooked, they go tough and chewy fast.
• The tomato base can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Bring it back to a simmer before adding the seafood.

Variations

• Toss in mussels or chunks of firm white fish along with the other shellfish.
• Skip the bacon for a lighter, pescatarian version and start with olive oil instead.
• Serve over crusty bread or with a garlicky toast for soaking up the broth.