Manestra (Meat with Orzo)

Manestra is Greek comfort food at its most elemental. Stewing meat (beef or lamb) braises low and slow in a tomato sauce perfumed with cinnamon and spearmint until fork-tender, then orzo pasta cooks right in the same pot, soaking up all that meaty, spiced broth.

The cinnamon is the signature here. Just a pinch, but it rounds out the tomato and gives the whole dish a warmth you can’t quite place until someone tells you what it is. Combined with spearmint, it’s distinctly Greek and unlike any Italian meat sauce you’ve had.

Browning the meat and onions together for a full ten minutes before adding liquid builds a caramelized base. That fond on the bottom of the pan dissolves into the braising liquid and becomes the soul of the sauce.

Kitchen Tips

• The meat needs a full 1 ½ hours of simmering before you add the orzo. Don’t rush it. Tough stewing cuts need that time to break down.
• Stir the orzo only once or twice after adding. Too much stirring releases starch and makes things gluey.
• The orzo absorbs liquid quickly. If it looks dry before the 20 minutes are up, add a splash of hot water.
• Serve with a generous pile of grated cheese on top. Kefalotyri is traditional, but Pecorino Romano or Parmesan work well.

Variations

• Use lamb for a richer, more traditional Greek flavor.
• Add a bay leaf and a pinch of allspice to the braising liquid for extra depth.
• Stir in a handful of crumbled feta instead of grated hard cheese for a tangier finish.