Lunn Cake

Lunn Cake (a close relative of the Bath bun and Sally Lunn bread) is one of the oldest English yeast cakes, dating back centuries. It sits somewhere between bread and cake: enriched with eggs, milk, and shortening, lightly sweetened, and baked in a ring mold until golden. Served warm and torn apart with butter, it’s the kind of thing you’d find in a proper English tea room.

The method is straightforward but the order matters. Scalding the milk and melting the shortening in it serves two purposes: it kills any bacteria that could interfere with the yeast, and it ensures the fat is fully incorporated into the liquid. Cooling to hand temperature (around 110F) before crumbling in the yeast is critical. Too hot and you’ll kill the yeast. Too cool and it won’t activate.

This is a batter, not a dough. You beat the flour in rather than kneading it. The texture should be thick and sticky, more like a heavy pancake batter than a bread dough. That wetness is what gives the finished cake its incredibly soft, open crumb.

Two rises produce the lightest result. The first rise doubles the batter in the bowl. A good punch down, then spoon it into the greased ring mold for the second rise. Once doubled again, it goes straight into the oven.

Kitchen Tips

• A ring mold or tube pan bakes this evenly because the center tube allows heat to reach the middle of the batter. A regular round pan will work but increase baking time and watch for a raw center.
• Beat the batter thoroughly after adding the flour. This develops the gluten that gives the cake structure without kneading.
• If using active dry yeast instead of compressed yeast, use one packet (2 ¼ teaspoons) and dissolve in the warm milk first.
• Serve immediately. This cake is at its absolute best straight from the oven, split and buttered while still steaming.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of lemon zest and a handful of currants to the batter for a fruited version.
• Brush the warm top with a sugar glaze (powdered sugar mixed with lemon juice) for a sweeter finish.
• Toast leftover slices and serve with jam and clotted cream for an English cream tea.