Liula-Kebab

Liula kebab (also spelled lula or lyulya) is a Central Asian and Caucasian grilled lamb preparation that’s closer to a sausage than a typical kebab. Four pounds of lean lamb get mixed with a heavy hand of fresh mint, chopped onions, green onions, garlic, ginger, black pepper, and red pepper flakes, then beaten with a wooden spoon until the mixture turns smooth and sticky enough to hold onto skewers over open coals.

The beating is what makes this work. You’re developing the proteins in the ground meat until the mixture becomes almost paste-like and cohesive. Without that extended beating, the sausage shapes fall apart on the grill and drop through the grate into the fire. The mixture should stick to itself when pressed.

Charcoal that has burned down to grey, ashy coals gives the even, radiant heat these kebabs need. Open flame chars the outside while leaving the center raw. Grey coals cook them through evenly in 12-15 minutes with a smoky crust on all sides.

Pro Tips

• Use lean lamb. Too much fat causes flare-ups on the charcoal and the kebabs won’t hold their shape on the skewer.
• Wet your hands when forming the sausages. The sticky meat mixture clings to dry hands and makes shaping frustrating.
• Leave a 1-inch gap between each sausage on the skewer so heat circulates and they cook evenly.
• Soak wooden skewers for at least 30 minutes before threading. Dry wood catches fire over hot coals.

Variations

• Serve with flatbread, sliced raw onion, and sumac for a traditional Caucasian accompaniment.
• Mix in a tablespoon of ground cumin for a more Central Asian spice profile.
• Use a combination of lamb and beef (50/50) for a milder, less gamey flavor.