Lemon Chiffon Cake

Chiffon cake is the great American baking innovation of the 1920s, a hybrid that splits the difference between a dense butter cake and an airy angel food. The trick is using vegetable oil instead of butter for moisture, then folding in stiffly beaten egg whites for height and tenderness. The result is a cake that stays soft for days.

This lemon version goes hard on citrus. A full half cup of fresh lemon juice plus generous zest in the batter gives every slice that mouth-puckering brightness that defines a great spring or Easter cake.

Cream of tartar dusted onto the egg whites stabilizes the foam so it whips to glossy stiff peaks without collapsing. Folding a quarter of the whites in first lightens the heavy yolk batter, then the rest folds in cleanly without deflating.

The inverted cooling step is essential. The cake hangs upside down in its pan for an hour so gravity pulls the structure down and prevents the airy crumb from collapsing.

Pro Tips

• Use a tube or bundt pan with a removable bottom and never grease it heavily, the cake needs to climb the sides as it bakes
• Cool the cake fully upside down. Skipping this step means a deflated dense cake
• Beat the egg whites in a spotlessly clean bowl, any trace of yolk or fat will keep the whites from whipping properly
• Run a thin knife around the edges in one smooth pass when unmolding, sawing tears the delicate crumb

Variations

• Swap lemon juice for orange juice and zest for a more mellow citrus version
• Top with a lemon glaze and macerated berries for a brunch-worthy finish
• Layer slices with whipped cream and fresh strawberries for an instant trifle