Le Risotto Aux Champignons Tessinois

A Ticinese risotto from the Italian-speaking canton of southern Switzerland, where cross-border cuisine borrows heavily from Lombardy but adapts it to mountain ingredients. This version uses brown rice instead of the traditional Arborio and dried wild mushrooms rather than fresh, resulting in a heartier, earthier version than its Lombardy cousin.

Dried mushrooms (typically porcini in Ticino) are the soul of the dish. Rehydrated in warm water for about 20 minutes, they swell back to softness while releasing deeply concentrated umami into the soaking liquid. Squeeze the mushrooms gently before chopping and save the dark broth for the risotto if you want even more mushroom flavor.

Red wine instead of white is the distinctly Swiss-Italian move. Where Lombardy risotto uses white wine for brightness, Ticino mountain cooking leans on whatever’s in the cellar, and red wine gives this dish a deeper, more complex character with hints of stewed fruit. Plus, red wine plays beautifully against rosemary and mushrooms, creating something almost wintry and substantial rather than delicate.

Unlike traditional risotto, this recipe doesn’t rely on continuous stirring. The brown rice cooks absorption-style: all the liquid goes in at once and simmers down over low heat until the rice is tender. Easier for home cooks and still delivers creamy, satisfying results.

Kitchen Tips

• Soak dried mushrooms in warm (not hot) water. Boiling water extracts too much flavor too fast and wastes the mushroom’s potential.
• Filter the mushroom soaking liquid through a coffee filter or fine cloth to remove grit before using in the risotto.
• Brown rice takes longer than white or Arborio. Budget 25 minutes of simmering, not the 15 of traditional risotto.
• Finish with a knob of butter and a generous grating of Parmesan for richness.

Variations

• Swap brown rice for Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano for a more classic creamy texture.
• Use a mix of dried mushrooms (porcini, morel, chanterelle) for more complex flavor.
• Stir in a handful of toasted pine nuts or chopped hazelnuts for Alpine crunch.