Laksa Gravy

A great curry laksa lives and dies by its gravy, and this one starts where all the best Southeast Asian cooking does: with a pounded spice paste.

Soaked dried chilies, lemongrass, shallots, galangal, candlenuts, and a little shrimp paste get ground into a fragrant rempah, then fried gently in oil until the raw edge cooks off and the aromas bloom. This frying step is what builds the deep, layered flavor.

Turmeric and coriander add earthy warmth and that signature golden color.

The richness comes from coconut milk, used cleverly in two stages: the thinner milk simmers in early to build the broth, while the thick cream from the top of the can goes in at the end so it doesn’t split.

Chewy Chinese fish balls poach right in the gravy, and a hit of dried shrimp deepens the savory backbone. Ladle it over rice noodles for a proper bowl of laksa.

Chef Tips

• Fry the spice paste patiently until it darkens and smells fragrant; rushing this step leaves a raw, harsh taste.
• Add the thick coconut cream only at the end and keep the heat gentle so the coconut milk doesn’t curdle or split.
• Pound or blend the candlenuts well, since they thicken the gravy and give it a smooth, rich body.

Variations

• Spoon the gravy over rice vermicelli or thick laksa noodles with bean sprouts, tofu puffs, and a boiled egg.
• Add poached shrimp, shredded chicken, or cockles along with the fish balls.
• Substitute macadamias for hard-to-find candlenuts.