Karydopita

Karydopita is Greece’s answer to every nut cake that ever existed, and it wins. A full pound of coarsely chopped walnuts and crushed zwieback replace flour entirely, giving this Greek cake a dense, moist crumb that drinks up the citrus-clove syrup poured over it after baking.

Eighteen eggs, separated, is not a typo. The yolks get beaten with sugar until light and lemony, building the rich, golden base of the batter. The whites get whipped to soft peaks and folded in, providing the only leavening besides a half teaspoon of baking soda dissolved in Cognac. That’s a lot of eggs doing a lot of work, and the result is a cake that’s simultaneously dense and airy.

The Cognac isn’t just for flavor (though five tablespoons delivers plenty). Mixed with baking soda, it creates a chemical reaction that adds lift to this heavy, nut-laden batter. You’ll see it fizz slightly when combined.

The orange-clove syrup needs to be completely cool before it hits the hot cake. Hot syrup on a hot cake creates steam that makes the top soggy instead of letting the liquid absorb evenly. Cool syrup sinks in slowly, saturating every layer. Cut into traditional diamond shapes once fully cool.

Pro Tips

• Crush the zwieback to a fine, even crumb. Large pieces create dry pockets that don’t absorb syrup well
• Chop walnuts coarsely for texture. A food processor makes them too fine and releases oil that makes the cake greasy
• Fold the egg whites gently in three additions. Aggressive stirring deflates them and the cake won’t rise properly
• Bake until deep chestnut brown, not just golden. The darker color means the zwieback and walnuts have toasted through

Variations

• Use brandy instead of Cognac if that’s what you have on hand
• Swap lemon peel for the orange in the syrup for a sharper citrus note
• Add a tablespoon of ground cloves to the batter alongside the cinnamon for a spicier cake