Kakavia

Before bouillabaisse took over the Mediterranean seafood soup conversation, there was kakavia. This Greek fisherman’s stew predates the famous French version by a few thousand years, and the bones of the dish haven’t changed much since: a rich tomato and herb broth, whatever fresh catch came aboard that day, and rustic bread to soak it all up.

The stock is the foundation. Onions, tomatoes, fennel, parsley, bay, thyme, white wine, and water simmer 45 minutes before straining. Pressing every drop of vegetable liquid through a sieve extracts all the flavor while leaving behind the fibers, giving you a clean, intensely-flavored broth.

The seafood goes in ranked by cook time. Fish first for 5 minutes, lobster next for 5 more, then shrimp and scallops for 10 minutes. Each element finishes perfectly cooked rather than overcooked waiting for the others.

Pro Tips

• Use three or four different fish varieties. Mixed species give layered flavor that single-fish soups never reach.
• Lightly salt the fish 10 minutes before cooking, then rinse. This firms the flesh so it holds together in the broth instead of flaking apart.
• Don’t skip the toast at the bottom of the bowl. The bread soaks up broth and delivers a whole different eating experience than the stew alone.
• Press the vegetable pulp hard through the sieve. Lazy straining means you leave half the flavor behind.

Variations

• Add a splash of ouzo or Greek brandy to the broth for extra Mediterranean character.
• Include mussels in the final 10 minutes for a more varied shellfish mix.
• Serve with a side of garlicky aioli to dollop into each bowl.