Inland Paella

This is a paella the way home cooks far from the Valencian coast made it, working with what the local butcher had. Two kinds of chicken, hot Italian sausage standing in for chorizo, and canned clams plus shrimp giving the seafood layer. Different from the original, but it earns the name.

The move that keeps this from being a casserole pretender: toasting the rice in the sausage and onion drippings before any liquid hits the pan. That step toasts the grain and locks in flavor, the same principle as a proper risotto soffritto.

Saffron is non-skippable here. Dissolve the threads in warm bouillon first to release their color and flavor. The rice should finish a true golden yellow, not pale.

The seafood goes in last. Clams and shrimp both cook in minutes, so adding them too early turns them rubbery. Peas and pimentos hit the top right before serving for color and a pop of sweetness.

Pro Tips

• Use short-grain rice if you have it. Bomba or arborio absorbs broth without turning gummy.
• Resist stirring once the rice goes in. The bottom should form a slight crust, called socarrat, which is prized.
• Salt the chicken aggressively before browning. The rice draws seasoning up from the meat as it cooks.
• Cover loosely with foil if the top dries out before the rice is done.

Variations

• Swap clams for fresh mussels in shells for a more dramatic presentation.
• Add chopped red bell pepper with the onions for a sweeter base.
• Use chorizo and smoked paprika in place of Italian sausage for a closer-to-Spain version.