Hollandaise Sauce for Trout

Hollandaise is one of the five French mother sauces, and this version is built specifically for trout. Three egg yolks, 12 tablespoons of butter, fresh lemon juice, and a pinch of cayenne. That’s it. The technique is everything.

The egg yolks start in a saucepan set over simmering water with cold water, salt, and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Whisking constantly in a back-and-forth circular motion, you cook the yolks until they thicken to a custard-like consistency. This is the critical moment. Too much heat scrambles the eggs. Not enough and they never thicken. Moderate, steady heat and constant whisking are the only path.

Once the yolks are thick, the melted butter goes in slowly while you whisk vigorously. The yolks emulsify the butter into a smooth, creamy sauce that should coat the back of a spoon. The remaining lemon juice and cayenne go in at the end to brighten and add just the faintest warmth.

Pro Tips

• Keep the water at a gentle simmer, never a boil. Boiling water creates too much heat and cooks the yolks into scrambled bits.
• Add the butter in a slow, thin stream. Dumping it in all at once breaks the emulsion and the sauce separates.
• If the sauce starts to break (looks greasy and separated), whisk in a tablespoon of cold water. This can often rescue it.
• Serve immediately. Hollandaise doesn’t hold well. If you must wait, keep it warm in the water bath with the heat off, whisking occasionally.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of chopped fresh tarragon and a splash of white wine vinegar to make Bearnaise sauce.
• Stir in a teaspoon of Dijon mustard for a sauce that pairs especially well with grilled salmon.
• Replace lemon juice with lime juice and add a pinch of smoked paprika for a Southwestern twist on the classic.