Holderschmarren

Holderschmarren is one of those old Alpine dishes that barely exists in cookbooks anymore. It’s a fruit-and-bread porridge from the Austrian countryside, where elderberries, ripe plums, and sliced pears get sauteed in butter, then simmered with milk, rye bread, and a dusting of cinnamon sugar.

The rye bread soaks up the milk and fruit juices as it cooks, breaking down into a thick, porridge-like base. It acts as both thickener and substance, turning what would otherwise be a fruit compote into a proper meal. Use day-old bread with the crusts removed for the best texture.

A thin paste of flour and milk goes in early to help bind everything. It’s a simple technique that keeps the liquid from being too thin while the plums soften.

The lemon juice stirred in at the end brightens the whole dish. Without it, the elderberries and plums can taste flat and one-dimensional.

Kitchen Tips

• Remove all elderberry stems carefully. They’re bitter and will ruin the dish.
• Use ripe, soft plums that will break down during cooking. Hard plums won’t soften in 15 minutes.
• Stir gently so the bread absorbs liquid without turning into paste.
• Serve warm in bowls, either as a dessert or a hearty breakfast.

Variations

• Swap elderberries for blackberries or blueberries if elderberries aren’t available.
• Use brioche or challah instead of rye bread for a sweeter, more delicate version.
• Top with a dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream for dessert.