Helen's Holiday Float

Somewhere between eggnog and a baked custard, this holiday dessert is the kind of recipe that gets passed down through families and pulled out once a year when the occasion calls for something special.

A rich egg yolk custard gets cooked on the stovetop in a double boiler until thick, then spiked with whiskey, brandy, and vanilla. The whole thing goes into a baking dish lined with nutmeg, gets crowned with a sweetened meringue, and bakes just long enough for the top to turn golden brown.

The double boiler is doing important work here. Direct heat would scramble the egg yolks. Stir constantly and add the hot milk slowly to the yolk mixture. Rushing this step gives you sweet scrambled eggs, not custard.

Chef Tips

• Scald the milk until steaming but not boiling. Boiled milk develops a skin and can curdle when mixed with the eggs.
• Temper the yolks by adding the hot milk in a slow stream while whisking. This gradually raises the temperature without cooking the eggs.
• The meringue only needs about 10 minutes in the oven. Watch it closely for golden color on top.
• Chill thoroughly before serving. This is meant to be cold, and the flavors of the whiskey and brandy mellow beautifully overnight in the fridge.

Variations

• Use bourbon instead of whiskey for a warmer, sweeter profile.
• Skip the alcohol and double the vanilla extract for a family-friendly version.
• Top with a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg just before serving for extra aroma.