Hanna's French Apple Cake

This French apple cake is closer to a baked almond soufflé than a traditional cake. Six apples poach gently in sugar syrup until soft, then get covered in a light, flourless batter made from blanched almonds, butter, sugar, egg yolks, and lemon zest, lifted by stiffly beaten egg whites folded in at the end.

There’s no flour in the batter at all. The ground almonds provide the only structure, which means the finished texture is impossibly light and slightly moist, with a delicate almond flavor that complements the soft, sweet poached apples underneath.

The whipped egg whites are what give the topping its airy lift. Fold them in gently to keep as much air as possible in the batter. Rough stirring deflates the whites and you end up with a dense, flat topping instead of a golden, pillowy one.

Chef Tips

• Poach the apple halves just until they’re soft enough to pierce with a knife tip. Overcooked apples turn to mush under the batter and make the bottom soggy.
• Drain the apples thoroughly before transferring to the baking dish. Excess syrup pooling around the fruit prevents the batter from setting.
• Fold the egg whites in three additions: the first loosens the batter, the second and third maintain the volume. One big dump knocks all the air out.
• The cake is done when the top is golden and springs back when lightly touched.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of Calvados (apple brandy) to the poaching syrup for a more intensely French flavor.
• Use pears instead of apples for a softer, more perfumed dessert.
• Toast the almonds lightly before grinding for a deeper, nuttier flavor in the batter.