Traditional Haggis

This is haggis the way it’s been made in Scotland for centuries, no shortcuts. It starts with the pluck, the heart, liver, and lights (lungs), which is what separates a truly traditional haggis from the watered-down versions. They simmer together with the windpipe draped over the pot’s edge so impurities drain out, an old technique that’s odd to watch but does the job.

Once the mutton and pluck are minced, the soul of the dish goes in: oatmeal, toasted in a dry pan until pale gold and crisp, which keeps it from turning gluey and adds a nutty depth. Suet brings richness and onion brings savor, all moistened with a little stock so it isn’t dry.

Two rules keep your haggis intact. Pack the stomach bag only half-full, because the oatmeal swells dramatically as it cooks, and prick it all over with a needle as it boils to keep the bag from bursting. After a long, steady simmer, you’ve got a peppery, savory pudding ready to serve with the traditional neeps and tatties, mashed turnips and potatoes.

Kitchen Tips

• Toast the oatmeal until golden and crisp first. This is what keeps the finished haggis from turning pasty.
• Fill the stomach bag only about half-full. The oatmeal swells a lot, and an overfull bag splits open.
• Prick the haggis all over with a needle as it simmers to vent steam and prevent bursting.
• Rest a small upturned plate in the bottom of the pot so the bag doesn’t touch the hot base and scorch.

Variations

• No stomach bag? Steam the mixture tightly wrapped in foil or packed in a greased pudding basin.
• Beef heart and liver can stand in if a full sheep’s pluck is hard to source.
• Serve with a dram of whisky poured over, the classic Burns Night flourish.