Great Cake

Great Cake: A Colonial American Classic

This great cake goes back to the American colonial era, the kind of cake Martha Washington would have served to important guests at Mount Vernon. The word “great” referred to its size and significance rather than deliciousness. A cake this rich, with a pound each of butter and flour, more than half a pound of sugar, nearly nine eggs, and almost a pound and a half of currants, was reserved for weddings, Christmas, and the occasional presidential levee.

Rosewater is the giveaway ingredient. Before vanilla extract became the default American flavoring in the 1800s, rosewater was the sophisticated choice, and it gives this pound cake a faintly floral perfume that marries beautifully with the buttery crumb and the boozy-sweet currants.

This is a long-keeping cake by design. The high butter and sugar content, plus all those dried fruits, were essentially historical preservatives. Wrapped tight in linen or parchment, a great cake could hold for weeks in a cool pantry.

Modern ovens at 325°F (160°C) work well for a cake this size. Lower and slower prevents the outside from burning before the dense center cooks through.

Chef Tips

• Cream the butter and sugar for a full 8 to 10 minutes until pale and fluffy; this is the only leavening in the original recipe, no baking powder involved.
• Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each to prevent the batter from breaking.
• Toss the currants and citron in a tablespoon of flour before folding in; this keeps them suspended rather than sinking to the bottom.
• The cake is done when a tester comes out clean and the top springs back; a dense cake this size can take 90 minutes or more, not 45.

Variations

• Replace currants with a mix of raisins, dried cranberries, and chopped dried apricots for a more colorful fruit cake.
• Add a teaspoon of grated nutmeg and mace for a true colonial spice blend.
• Brush the warm cake with a glaze of brandy and powdered sugar for a traditional finish and extra moisture.