Gods Own Beans

This is what happens when humble canned baked beans get the deluxe treatment. The recipe starts with two cans of beans, plus a can of Mexican frijoles de olla, then loads them up until they taste anything but canned.

Thick peppered bacon renders first for a smoky base, then garlic, onion, sweet red pepper and chopped anaheim chiles soften in the drippings.

What really sets these apart is the herbs. Fresh marjoram, savory and thyme go in by the tablespoon, along with Worcestershire and a hot chile, giving the beans a layered, almost herbaceous depth you rarely find in a bean pot.

A 35-minute simmer melds it all together. Taste at the end and add a shot of hot sauce if you want more kick. It is a sweet, smoky, gently spicy side that steals the show at any cookout or potluck.

Chef Tips

• Pour off most, but not all, of the bacon fat. A little left behind carries flavor, while too much makes the beans greasy.
• Use fresh herbs if you can. The marjoram, savory and thyme are what lift these beans above ordinary canned ones.
• Simmer low and stir often, as directed, so the thick beans do not scorch on the bottom.

Variations

• Use bay or curry leaf if you cannot find neem, as the recipe notes.
• Stir in a spoonful of brown sugar or molasses for sweeter, more classic baked beans.
• Add cooked ground beef or smoked sausage to turn it into a main.