German Cabbage Muffins

These savory muffins are an old-school German farmhouse trick for using up cabbage. The grated cabbage folds into a quick muffin batter and bakes into something that eats like a cross between a corn muffin and a savory scone. The texture is tender with little ribbons of softened cabbage running through it, and the flavor leans gently sweet thanks to a tablespoon of sugar that balances the celery seed and onion.

The one rule that makes or breaks this batter: stir for under 10 seconds once the wet hits the dry. Quickbreads turn rubbery the moment you overwork them, and cabbage muffins are especially unforgiving. A few flour streaks in the batter are a good sign.

Grate the cabbage finely on the medium holes of a box grater. Big chunks stay tough through the bake. Fine grates soften and disappear into the crumb.

Serve alongside hot pea soup, lentil stew, sausage and sauerkraut, or any heavy braised winter meal. They also make a strange and pleasant breakfast with butter and a slice of sharp cheese.

Pro Tips

• Squeeze the grated cabbage in a clean towel before adding. Excess moisture turns the muffins gummy.
• Toast the celery seed in a dry pan for 30 seconds before mixing in for a deeper aromatic kick.
• Fill cups two-thirds full, no more. Cabbage adds weight that compresses the rise.
• Eat them warm. Cold cabbage muffins lose their texture appeal fast.

Variations

• Add a quarter teaspoon of caraway seed for a more pronounced German bakery flavor.
• Stir in a half cup of grated Swiss cheese or sharp cheddar.
• Use grated savoy cabbage for a slightly sweeter, more delicate version.