Geneva Pear Flan (Geneve)

This pear flan is a Genevan tradition, one of those humble cakes you find in French-Swiss bakeries but almost never in American ones. It’s built like a shallow tart: a shortcrust or puff pastry shell, a cinnamon-sugar dusting to absorb juice, eight grated pears piled in, then candied lemon and orange peel, raisins and a splash of walnut oil mixed through.

The white wine poured over the fruit is what separates this from every other pear tart you’ve eaten. As it bakes, the wine reduces and concentrates with pear juice into a glossy, slightly boozy syrup that soaks into every layer. Cream poured over the whole thing at the end bakes into a thin caramelized top that looks rustic but adds real richness.

Walnut oil in the filling is the secret. Most fruit tarts use butter or neutral oil. Walnut oil lends a subtle toasted nuttiness that tastes distinctly Swiss and plays beautifully with the orchard fruit.

Pro Tips

• Use firm, slightly underripe pears like Bosc or Anjou, softer pears turn to mush under the long bake
• Grate the pears on a box grater as the directions suggest, this releases juice evenly and makes a uniform filling
• Add the wine gradually, judging by how juicy the pears already look, a fully soaked filling makes a soggy tart
• Bake at a full 425F (220C) as specified, lower oven temperatures leave the custard cream undercooked
• Let the tart cool completely before unmolding, warm filling is fragile and will tear the crust

Variations

• Swap walnut oil for hazelnut oil for a different nutty profile
• Add a pinch of grated nutmeg to the cinnamon-sugar base
• Use dried cranberries instead of raisins for more tartness and holiday color