French Style Ice Cream **

French-style ice cream belongs to the custard camp, and that’s what gives this batch its plush, golden richness. Egg yolks beaten thick with sugar form a custard base, and a gentle cook on the stove, just until it coats the back of a spoon, is what transforms raw eggs into something silky and stable.

This recipe adds an unusual flourish: whipped egg whites folded in before churning. That extra air lightens the custard so the finished ice cream is rich without going leaden, closer to a frozen mousse than a dense scoop. Two tablespoons of real vanilla carry the flavor, so don’t skimp on quality here.

The make-or-break moment is on the stove. Cook the custard over medium heat, stirring constantly, only until it coats a spoon, and pull it just before it boils. Let it boil and the eggs scramble into grainy curds. Chill the base thoroughly, then churn and freeze; a cold mixture churns faster and freezes smoother, so the long chill earns its keep.

Chef Tips

• Never let the custard boil. Stir constantly, watch for the spoon-coating stage, then take it off the heat right away.
• Chill the base completely, ideally overnight, before churning. A warm base makes icy, coarse ice cream.
• If you’re nervous about the eggs, cook the custard to 170 to 175 degrees F (77 to 79 degrees C), which thickens it safely without scrambling.

Variations

• Steep a split vanilla bean in the warm cream for deeper, speckled vanilla flavor.
• Fold in chocolate chips, toasted nuts, or crushed cookies after churning.
• Swirl in fruit puree, salted caramel, or a shot of espresso for a flavored custard.