Fish Mulligan

Fish mulligan is the kind of no-fuss, throw-it-all-in-the-pot cooking that made New England kitchens famous. Haddock simmers with cubed potatoes, carrots, green peppers, and crushed tomatoes in a broth built on bacon drippings and celery seed. It’s chowder’s scrappier, tomato-based cousin.

The bacon goes in first, rendering its fat into the pot. Those drippings become the cooking base for the onions and everything that follows. Crumble the cooked bacon and save it for garnish so you get smoky, crunchy bites on top of each bowl.

Celery seed is a quiet powerhouse in this stew. Half a teaspoon adds a warm, slightly bitter, celery-like flavor that ties the vegetables and fish together without tasting like any single ingredient. It’s a common trick in old chowder recipes that modern versions often skip.

The tomatoes go in last, just long enough to heat through. Adding them too early breaks down their acidity and can toughen the fish. A quick addition at the end keeps their brightness intact.

Pro Tips

• Cut the haddock into 2½-inch pieces so they hold together during simmering. Smaller pieces will flake apart into the broth.
• Cube the potatoes to ¾ inch for even cooking. They should be tender but not falling apart when the stew is done.
• This recipe doubles well. Use a full pound of bacon when doubling for enough drippings to sauté the larger batch of onions.
• Serve with crusty bread to soak up the tomatoey broth.

Variations

• Add cubed chicken breast, shrimp, clams, or oysters alongside the haddock for a surf-and-turf version.
• Swap haddock for cod or pollock if that’s what’s fresh at the fish counter.
• Stir in a splash of hot sauce or Old Bay seasoning for a spicier, more Maryland-style take.