Fish Stew with Herbs

This fish stew is a quiet Provencal cousin of bouillabaisse: lighter, simpler, and friendlier to a weeknight pantry. Haddock stands in for the usual mixed catch, and the herb bouquet, bay leaf, thyme, fennel, peppercorns, and a strip of lemon zest does most of the flavor work.

The technique is straightforward but worth doing properly. Start with a soffritto of onion, carrot, and celery sauteed in olive oil until soft and glossy. Add garlic, plum tomatoes with their juice, fish stock, and white wine. That tomato-wine broth boils uncovered for five to ten minutes to concentrate and cook off the alcohol before the fish ever meets it. Adding raw fish to a harsh, boozy broth gives you boiled fish flavor. You want a broth that has had time to marry.

The fish goes in last. Fifteen minutes on low, covered, is enough. Haddock cooks fast, and a gentle simmer keeps the flakes in large, intact pieces rather than shredding into the broth.

Chef Tips

• Tie the bouquet garni in cheesecloth and attach the string to the pot handle. It makes fishing out the spent herbs a two-second job, and the strip of lemon zest alone is worth this effort for the aroma it contributes.
• Frozen haddock works if that is what is available, but let it thaw just until sliceable. Fully thawed fish loses too much liquid into the stew.
• Toast the croutons in olive oil with a smashed garlic clove for real garlic crouton flavor. Store-bought bags are fine in a pinch, but homemade is a 10-minute upgrade.
• Serve immediately in warm bowls. The broth chills fast on cold ceramic, and fish stew loses charm when tepid.

Variations

• Swap the haddock for cod, halibut, or a mix that includes shrimp or scallops added in the last five minutes.
• Add a pinch of saffron to the broth for a more traditional Mediterranean note. Bloom it in a spoonful of hot stock before adding.
• Stir in a dollop of rouille or aioli at the table, the classic bouillabaisse finish, for a creamy, garlicky bite.