Fiddleheads on Toast

Fiddleheads are one of the briefest seasons in the spring pantry. The tightly coiled shoots of the ostrich fern peek up for about two weeks in late April or early May, and old New England cookbooks have always made the most of them. This trio of brunch ideas keeps the prep simple so the grassy, asparagus-meets-spinach flavor of the fiddleheads stays front and center.

All three variations follow the same path: simmer the fiddleheads until tender, drain, and pile them on hot buttered toast or split English muffins under a blanket of white sauce. Where they diverge is the topping. Hard-boiled eggs and a dust of paprika make the homiest version. Crisp bacon and cheesy bechamel skews more diner-style. The fanciest wraps each fiddlehead in a slice of ham, broiled until the edges curl, then finished with cheese sauce.

Food-safety note: always boil fiddleheads for at least 10 minutes before serving. Raw or undercooked fiddleheads have been linked to foodborne illness, so don’t shortcut the cook.

Kitchen Tips

• Rinse fiddleheads thoroughly in several changes of water to remove the brown papery scales tucked inside the curl.
• Trim off any soft or browning tail ends before cooking.
• Use whole milk for the white sauce. Skim makes it watery.
• For a sharper cheese sauce, grate aged cheddar or Gruyere into the bechamel off the heat.

Variations

• Swap toast for a flaky biscuit or puff pastry square for a more brunch-y plate.
• Add a poached egg on top instead of stirring hard-boiled into the sauce.
• Stir a spoonful of grainy mustard or a few drops of lemon juice into the white sauce to balance the cream.