Fanwood Chow-Chow

Fanwood chow-chow is the New Jersey take on an old Pennsylvania Dutch farm relish, born from the seasonal urge to put up everything in the garden before frost. Three pillars of late-summer harvest: ripe tomatoes, sweet onions, and tart apples come together in a sweet-and-tangy preserve that holds up for months in the fridge.

The two-hour salt rest on the onions and tomatoes is the move that draws out the cell water and concentrates the vegetable flavor. Drain thoroughly before the apples join for the long simmer.

Whole cloves, broken cinnamon stick, and celery seed give the relish its warm-spiced backbone, while brown sugar and mustard balance the acid from the vinegar.

A total of two and a half hours on the stove reduces everything to a thick, jam-like consistency with visible chunks. Skip the corners on the slow simmer, this is what concentrates the flavors and gives chow-chow its characteristic depth.

Serve on top of pulled pork sandwiches, alongside grilled sausages, or as a side condiment for pork chops.

Kitchen Tips

• Scald the tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds to slip the skins off easily before slicing.
• Use firm tart apples like Granny Smith, soft sweet apples turn to mush during the long simmer.
• Pick out the whole cloves and broken cinnamon stick before jarring, biting into one is unpleasant.
• Store in clean glass jars in the fridge, this is not a canned shelf-stable preserve unless you pressure can.

Variations

• Add a diced green bell pepper for a more colorful and traditional Southern-style chow-chow.
• Stir in a half cup of golden raisins during the last 10 minutes for a sweeter, plumper relish.
• Use cider vinegar in place of white vinegar for a fruitier, deeper acid note.