Esquire Fortnightly's Eastern Establishment Chili
Submitted by pcrudd42
Esquire’s Eastern Establishment chili with whole brisket, two types of chile, and a surprising splash of coffee. A refined East Coast take on Texas chili with masa harina thickening and deep beef flavor.
YIELD
10 servingsPREP
20 minCOOK
4 hrsREADY
5 hrsThis recipe comes from Esquire magazine’s Fortnightly series, where East Coast writers tried their hand at Texas icons. The “Eastern Establishment” title is a tongue-in-cheek nod to the idea that a proper chili belongs to the Lone Star State, but the quality of this version earns its place on any serious chili-lover’s short list.
Whole beef brisket is the unusual centerpiece. Most chili recipes call for ground or cubed beef; this one browns a whole 5-pound brisket in lard, then simmers it for 3½ hours in the chili until it falls apart into shreds. The long cook turns the tough connective tissue into silky, deeply flavored meat that no ground beef can match.
The coffee addition is the hidden stroke of genius. One cup of brewed coffee stirred in during the final hour of simmering adds bitter, roasted depth without tasting coffee-like. It’s the same trick used in the best Texas chili recipes and Mexican moles.
Masa harina (corn flour) is what thickens Texas chilis authentically, not wheat flour. Toasted briefly with the aromatics before liquid goes in, it adds a subtle corn sweetness along with body. Cornstarch works as a substitute but lacks the flavor.
Three different chiles (ground red chile, cayenne, and caribe flakes) create layered heat rather than one flat note. Each contributes different intensity and flavor; no single chile delivers the same complexity.
Kidney beans go in only at the very end. Texas purists will scoff at beans in chili, but this is the Eastern Establishment version, remember? The beans add bulk and texture for a non-purist audience.
Chef Tips
- Soak the beans overnight for the best texture. The quick-soak method (boil, rest, drain) works but gives slightly firmer beans.
- Trim the brisket of heavy fat before browning. Some fat is good for flavor; a full fat cap turns the chili greasy.
- Use fresh-ground cumin if possible. Toast whole cumin seeds and grind them yourself for the deepest, most aromatic chili.
- Let the chili rest in the fridge overnight if you can. Chili always tastes better the next day after the flavors fully merge.
Variations
- Skip the kidney beans entirely for a truer Texas-style chili.
- Add ½ cup dark beer or stout along with the coffee for even more depth.
- Top each bowl with diced raw onion, grated cheddar, sour cream, and sliced jalapeños for classic Texas chili garnishes.
Ingredients
Directions
Place the beans in a bowl, cover with water and soak.
Pour the beans and the water in which they were soaked into a heavy saucepan.
Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour or until tender.
Stir occasionally. Heat the oil or melt the lard in a large heavy casserole over medium heat.
Pat the brisket dry and add it to the casserole.
Stir the beef until it is quite brown on all sides.
Remove it from the casserole and set aside. Add more oil or lard to the casserole if needed, then add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent.
Stir in the green peppers, basil, bay leaf, ground chile, cayenne pepper, caribe, and cumin.
Cook for about 1 minute, then add the corn flour(masa harina) and cook 1 or 2 minutes longer.
Return the brisket to the casserole and add the tomatoes and their liquid.
Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours.
Stir occasionally. Stir in the salt and black pepper.
Taste and adjust seasonings.
Add the coffee and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour longer.
Add the kidney beans to the chili. Simmer, uncovered, for another ½ hour.
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