Escargots Bourguignonne

Escargots bourguignonne is the dish that made snails famous outside of France. Each one sits in its shell packed with a generous plug of compound butter loaded with garlic, shallots, parsley, and a whisper of nutmeg. Eight minutes in a hot oven and that butter melts into a bubbling, fragrant pool that begs to be sopped up with crusty French bread.

The snail butter (beurre d’escargot) is really the star here. Three-quarters of a pound of unsalted butter gets creamed with finely minced shallots, garlic, and fresh parsley. The ratio is generous on purpose. You want enough butter to fill each shell around the snail with room to spare, so every bite is drenched in garlicky richness.

A splash of dry white wine in the bottom of each baking dish creates steam that keeps the snails from drying out and adds a subtle acidity to the butter sauce. Breadcrumbs sprinkled on top give a light crust that holds the butter in place as it melts.

Chef Tips

• Make the snail butter a day ahead. The flavors merge and intensify overnight in the fridge, and cold butter is easier to press into the shells.
• Place shells open-end up in escargot dishes or a muffin tin if you don’t have proper snail plates. The wells keep the shells from tipping and spilling the butter.
• Use the best unsalted butter you can find. With this few ingredients, the butter quality shows.
• Have warmed bread on the table before the escargots come out. The butter cools and solidifies fast.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of Pernod or pastis to the butter for an anise-scented Provencal twist.
• Replace the parsley with fresh tarragon for a more herbaceous, slightly licorice-toned butter.
• Skip the shells entirely and bake the snails in a shallow gratin dish covered in the compound butter for a rustic, family-style presentation.