El Charro Barbacoa

This is Tucson-style barbacoa from the famous El Charro Cafe, a classic Sonoran beef preparation that layers flavor in three distinct stages. First the beef simmers gently with pickling spices and garlic until it falls apart. Then the shredded meat gets cooked down with a bright sauce of roasted green chiles, jalapenos, tomatoes, salsa de chile colorado and green olives. Finally everything goes into a low oven for an hour to tighten and concentrate.

The pickling spice bath in the first stage is what makes this recipe unusual. Most barbacoa leans on a chile-and-aromatic broth, but this version borrows from the old-world corned-beef tradition that arrived with German and Jewish immigrants to the American Southwest. Cinnamon, allspice, clove and peppercorn go deep into the meat as it cooks.

Green olives, tomatoes and a splash of red wine round out the sauce with Mediterranean influences, proof that Sonoran cuisine has always been more globally seasoned than the Tex-Mex cliche suggests. Use on tacos, tostadas, burritos or over rice.

Chef Tips

• Choose brisket over eye of round if you have the option, the extra fat and connective tissue pull apart into silkier shreds
• Skim the scum diligently during the first simmer, unskimmed broth turns cloudy and tastes gamy
• Shred while the meat is warm, cold meat tears in chunks rather than in fine strands
• The final dry-roast in the oven is key, skipping it leaves the filling wet and bland
• Save some of the cooking broth for thinning leftovers, shredded beef tightens dramatically in the fridge

Variations

• Swap green olives for capers for a sharper, more acidic edge
• Add a handful of raisins for a sweet counter to the chile heat, a classic Sonoran twist
• Use the finished meat as filling for tacos, tamales or empanadas