Dorothy Flatman's Raspberry Pie

The whole problem with raspberry pie is that raspberries throw off a flood of juice the moment they hit the heat. Cornstarch can chalk up; flour can leave the filling cloudy. Instant tapioca is the old-fashioned answer that gets it right. The pearls dissolve into the juice, thicken it to a glossy, set filling, and stay invisible on the plate. Letting the fruit, tapioca, sugar, and lemon juice sit for 15 minutes before filling the pie is the step most people skip and shouldn’t. That rest is what gives the tapioca time to soften and start absorbing liquid, which is what saves the bottom crust from going soggy. The hidden hit of almond extract is the move that bumps this pie above ordinary. Almond and raspberry are old friends. A scant quarter teaspoon perfumes the entire filling without announcing itself, the way a great pastry chef would.

Pro Tips

• Don’t skip the 15-minute rest. The tapioca needs time to hydrate or you’ll get a watery filling and crunchy pearls.
• Use frozen raspberries unthawed if fresh aren’t in season. Add 5 minutes to the bake and another tablespoon of tapioca.
• Watch for that thick bubble that bursts slowly through the steam vents. That’s the visual cue the filling has thickened all the way through.
• If the crust browns too fast, tent the edges with foil for the last 20 minutes.
• Cool the pie at least 3 hours before slicing. Cutting too soon means the filling slumps onto the plate.

Variations

• Swap half the raspberries for blackberries, blueberries, or sour cherries for a mixed berry pie.
• Use a lattice top crust instead of a solid lid to let more steam escape and showcase the filling.
• Brush the top crust with milk or beaten egg and sprinkle with coarse sugar before baking for extra shine and crunch.